Hayes comp disc brake manual

Cut the hose to the desired length with good scissors or cable cutters. The cut end must be clean and perpendicular to the h ose itself.

We are a stroker manual for a canonical url. How to Bleed Hayes Dyno Brakes. It is not necessary to remove the brake system from the bike in order to use this guide or in order to perform the bleed. If you do choose to leave the brake on the bike especially the caliper please take precautions to ensure that your brake pads and rotors do not come into contact with brake fluid from accidental spillage. Once you've prepared your caliper it's time to get on with the bleed process.

DOT brake fluid is corrosive. Always wear safety glasses and protective gloves when handling DOT fluid. Keep containers out of reach of children. Step 3 Take the other syringe and draw up mls of brake fluid from the bottle. Step 4 Remove the lever bleed port screw using the Torx screwdriver bit and set aside safely. Step 5 Orientate the caliper so that the bleed port is facing up. Step 6 Gently pull on the plunger of the caliper syringe to create a vacuum within the caliper. Do not pull so hard as to draw air past the syringe seal.

Step 7 Release the tube clamp on the lever syringe. Step 8 After you have injected around half of the fluid within the syringe continue to inject but at the same time rotate the lever assembly on the handlebar upwards lever at 12 o'clock and then downwards lever at 6 o'clock , this will help to dislodge any remaining air bubbles. During this step quickly stroke the brake lever and allow it to snap back to its natural position, do this a few times.

This will help to dislodge any trapped air bubbles. Step 9 Once no more air bubbles are mixed with the fluid entering the lever syringe, continue to gently push on the caliper syringe and close the clamp on the lever syringe.

Step 10 Stop pushing on the plunger of the caliper syringe. Tightening torque: 1. Not sure what could be the issue?

Bleeding oil by two sides of m5 socket set screw one side in and one side out. Then tighten the M5 socket set screw by 2. One of the socket set screws is by the actuating arm but at 90 degrees to it the other is on the end of the reseveoir by the J of Juin. Only just changed the pads in the front set.

I can always upgrade in the future. Did you definitely get the cable-hydros? Can always upgrade later. Let us know how you get on with them. The Spyres have been okay but the internals are very exposed and struggle in muddy conditions. It eventually leads to them becoming stiff. You can strip and clean them but mine have got progressively worse.

I notice the newer Spyres have a bit more mud protection but these are cheaper and lighter. No brainer really. They came in a similar box and had the rotors, bolts and the calipers. The discs are basic but do the job. The build quality of the calipers looks good. Fitting was really straight forward. Just a case of winding the pad adjustment to its slackest position. Fit caliper to frame, thread the brake cable, centre the caliper and set your desired lever pull. A previous review I had read raised a concern about pad clearance but there is a good mil or so.

The ability to adjust the pad bite point is straight forward. Only had one wet road ride but initial impressions are good. Good power and modulation and able to lock the back wheel easily. Reynolds Carbon Wheels. Wheelsmith Bike spokes and nipples.

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